The tea room was smaller than I expected, barely four and a half tatami mats, with a low doorway that made every guest bow on the way in. That, our host explained, is the point. Inside, everyone is equal.

A single scroll hung in the alcove beside a branch of maple just beginning to turn. Our host chose it that morning, as she does every morning, to reflect the day. Before any tea was made, we were served a small wagashi sweet shaped like a chrysanthemum, its sweetness meant to balance the bitterness to come.

The ritual of attention

Every movement had a reason: the folding of the silk cloth, the warming of the bowl, the rhythm of the bamboo whisk until the matcha turned to a pale green foam. When the bowl was placed before me, I turned it twice so as not to drink from its front, a small gesture of respect for its maker.

A cup of tea on a wooden table
Matcha is whisked until a fine foam forms on the surface.
Ichigo ichie: one time, one meeting. This moment will never happen again in quite this way.

Bringing it home

I left with no souvenirs, only a habit. Most mornings now I make tea slowly, without a phone in sight. It is the most Kyoto thing I do, and the reason tea sits at the heart of Steeped, our signature wellness series.

Worth knowing

Private tea ceremonies can be arranged with tea masters in Higashiyama and Uji. Wear socks, sit comfortably on your knees for as long as you can, and don’t worry about getting every gesture right. Your host will guide you.

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